Bearded dragons are native to Australia. Their lifespan in captivity is approximately is 10 years, with adult size ranging from 14-18 inches. Some may grow to reach a bit more in length. They can make very good pets if properly cared for in captivity.

Bearded dragons should be housed individually throughout their lives. Although with the proper setup, it may be possible to keep 2 dragons together, but you must watch for dominance in one of the dragons. A 10-20-gallon enclosure is adequate for a single juvenile dragon. A single adult requires a minimum enclosure of about 40 inches in length. This gives adequate range of a basking area and cooler side.

Bedding/substrate: Newspapers and or paper towels are the safest and easiest to replace and or clean. Vinyl tile can also be used. It is very important to clean surface every day to prevent exposure to waste. Sand, gravel, mulch and other natural substrates should not be used due to difficulty of cleaning and risk of in gestation and irritation of eyes and mouth.

Branches, driftwood, cork bark and or large rocks can be provided for climbing. A hiding box can be placed on the warm side of the enclosure after about 9 months. You want to make sure your dragon is well situated and eating properly. At a very young age its best to keep your enclosure very simple so they do not have to hunt, and feeders cannot hide in enclosures of under items. HEAT ROCKS should never be used, due the possibility of risk of thermal burns.

A temperature gradient should be created in the enclosure with the warm side and a cool side. This allows the dragon to regulate its temperature by changing location. Provide a daytime focal basking area of 100-105 on the warm side when hatchlings, 95-100 for adults. The cooler side of enclosure should be 75-80. Use multiple digital thermometers with probes to ensure the correct temperatures are maintained. A nighttime temperature can range 65-70. If needed a safe under tank heating pad can help in maintain recommended temperature. Due to the risk of burn injuries, always use appropriate rheostats, thermostats if using the commonly Zoo Med heating pads.

It is important to use a UVB light (10.0) over the basking area with no glass or acrylic in between for 12-14 hours in summer and 10-12 hours in winter. UVB is necessary for vitamin D production and appropriate absorption of calcium from the GI system. Replace this bulb approximately every 6 months as UVB production decreases with time.

Feeding juveniles: At a young age the dragons eat less plant matter, and more animal matter. You should feed a variety of dark leafy vegetables, such as green/red leaf lettuce, collard greens, endive, parsley bok choy, with limited amount of other vegetables such as carrots, squash be offered. Chop or shred greens, spray with water, and offer in a bowl or on a plate at least once a day, if they eat it all you may offer more in afternoon. Offer your appropriately sized gut-loaded insect at least twice a day when young. Crickets should be no longer than the width of dragon’s head. Make sure you gut load your insects, so that your dragon is getting all the proper nutrition. To prevent injury to your dragon, remove uneaten crickets immediately as they will stress your dragon.

Dust salad and insects with a high-quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement with NO phosphorous added 4-5 times a week. Dust insects with a high-quality multi-vitamin with a vitamin A source that is NOT beta carotene once a week.

When your dragon becomes an adult, they will eat mostly plant matter. As this age they will eat 80% vegetables and 20% insects. When your dragon is 9 months old they should be feed insects 2 or 3 times a week.

If you want you may add a water bowl into which your dragon can easily climb into, make sure a small or low one for juveniles. You must change the water daily and clean your housing each day. Mist the environment daily with a spray bottle. You can also drip some water on your dragon’s head. Soak you dragon 2-3 times a week in a warm, shallow water for 15-20 minutes to encourage drinking, improve hydration and help with shedding.

I strongly recommend that your pet be seen for an annual physical examination and fecal analysis with an experience reptile vet. Consult a vet if you notice and of the following signs: weight loss, decreased appetite, abnormal stools, twitching, tremors, swelling of limbs, and difficulty breathing distension of the abdomen in non-breeding animals. It is important to keep your hatchlings environment as stress free as possible for the first few months.